Despite the moniker, most of the climbing takes place on the east side of the peak. Scramble southeast up a steep grassy slope for 200 yards from Crater Lake to the base of the east face. The route starts from the talus field just over the crest -- look for a large, tree-filled bench.
P1: Climb wet black rock (5.4) past a pin, aiming between the two large trees on the bench.
P2-4: Follow a 5.0 ramp up and south (climber's left), climbing over, around and through numerous trees en route. You can break this bit up or simul-climb. It's mostly 3rd and 4th class. It helped me to scope this bit out from the valley below and to the east of the peak, since only the final pitches are visible from Crater Lake.
P5: The ramp ends at a grassy gully which splits the east face. Climb broken rock (5.3) straight up this cleft to the base of a deep, water-streaked chimney.
P6: Climb the chimney (5.5), making use of the positive face holds on the right wall to get past a few tricky spots.
P7-8: Grassy slopes interspersed with occasional rock steps (5.4) lead to the top of the cleft, which deposits you on a huge ledge system below the summit cliffs.
P9: 3rd or 4th class south up blocky ramps to reach the summit cliff band.
P10: The crux! This 150-foot pitch follows a pair of twin cracks on the northwest-facing summit headwall, about 100 feet west of the prominent arete where the east and north faces meet. Don't be suckered into trying the diagonalling twin cracks closer to the arete -- it's off route. You'll know you're on route if you pass 4 old pins. Move right from the top of the cracks past a spike. Belay above on a huge ledge.
P11: Move your belay about 75 feet south along the ledge to the base of a left-angling 5.4 corner/chimney. With a 60 meter cord you can reach the top of the peak in one pitch from here. When the chimney peters out either belay or continue wandering up broken rock (choose your own adventure) to the summit.
Descent: Descend the Solo Flight route (Class IV), which heads south along and near the summit ridge before dropping east to Triangle Lake. A complete description of Solo Flight can be found in Gerry Roach's guide to the Indian Peaks.
P1: Climb wet black rock (5.4) past a pin, aiming between the two large trees on the bench.
P2-4: Follow a 5.0 ramp up and south (climber's left), climbing over, around and through numerous trees en route. You can break this bit up or simul-climb. It's mostly 3rd and 4th class. It helped me to scope this bit out from the valley below and to the east of the peak, since only the final pitches are visible from Crater Lake.
P5: The ramp ends at a grassy gully which splits the east face. Climb broken rock (5.3) straight up this cleft to the base of a deep, water-streaked chimney.
P6: Climb the chimney (5.5), making use of the positive face holds on the right wall to get past a few tricky spots.
P7-8: Grassy slopes interspersed with occasional rock steps (5.4) lead to the top of the cleft, which deposits you on a huge ledge system below the summit cliffs.
P9: 3rd or 4th class south up blocky ramps to reach the summit cliff band.
P10: The crux! This 150-foot pitch follows a pair of twin cracks on the northwest-facing summit headwall, about 100 feet west of the prominent arete where the east and north faces meet. Don't be suckered into trying the diagonalling twin cracks closer to the arete -- it's off route. You'll know you're on route if you pass 4 old pins. Move right from the top of the cracks past a spike. Belay above on a huge ledge.
P11: Move your belay about 75 feet south along the ledge to the base of a left-angling 5.4 corner/chimney. With a 60 meter cord you can reach the top of the peak in one pitch from here. When the chimney peters out either belay or continue wandering up broken rock (choose your own adventure) to the summit.
Descent: Descend the Solo Flight route (Class IV), which heads south along and near the summit ridge before dropping east to Triangle Lake. A complete description of Solo Flight can be found in Gerry Roach's guide to the Indian Peaks.
Protection
A light rack should suffice for this route. Bring 1 set of stoppers, some mid-range TCUs, Camalots to #3 (doubles in #1 and 2) and plenty of long slings.
If you're interested in the other routes check out Mountain Project.
Have fun!
Lone Eagle Adventures
Tabernash, CO 80478
785-445-5310
LoneEagleAdventures@gmail.com
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